Pope Leo XIV returned to the Vatican three weeks ago, after a stay at the papal summer retreat of Castel Gandolfo, but Rome is pretty much a ghost town between August 13 and whatever Tuesday happens to follow.
Romans head for the seaside, the hills outside the city, or pretty much anywhere else for the ancient Roman feragosto (ferragosto in Italian, but the Romans say it with one rolled r).
The holiday is celebrated all throughout Italy, and coincides with the solemnity of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary, but it has its origins in pagan antiquity.
Octavian Caesar, better known as the Emperor Augustus, first instituted the holiday as the feriae Augusti in 18 BC. He placed it on the first day of August, and it helped string together a series of older Roman holidays. The Church moved the holiday in Rome to coincide with the solemnity of the Assumption, sometime in late antiquity…
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